Cash's Holiday

Hi,      When leaving  Pompei , one wrong turn opened up the service area of the town and what an experience…..caught up in morning traffic, cars, trucks, vespers, push bikes, narrow roads, add to this haphazard parking….Italians stop their vehicles on corners, pedestrian crossings, even when curb side, cars are often at such an angle that flowing traffic has to veer round the protruding bumper. Luckily weeks of experience had our car survive without a scratch but as we have noticed  – many cars do carry some sort of scar. 

Tourist season is about to burst forth over the coming weeks. Our day visit round the Amelfi Coast was just in time as the roadway was busy enough and what a road….the corners made the challenge….picture a rugged mountain backdrop, very steep hillsides meeting the sea, the road twisting round the very edge way up above.  Once again parked cars causing a narrow road to narrow even more. Round the corners would appear a large car or worst still a bus….leaving very little space to manuvor past. Thank goodness a thick concrete wall edged the outside lane (which we were on) or I would have been walking the worst bits. A very dramatic but picturesque landscape. Beaches are more like coves, a lot private where one has to pay for the privilege of using a deck chair with umbrella. Getting down to some of them must be a feat in itself.   

 By sheer coincidence we had a sort of Cash family reunion while there as Dave’s sister Helen and husband Lester were in transit to join a cruise and contacted us weeks ago to say they would be staying in Positano (the most popular spot on the Amelfi Coast) so we timed our drive to meet up for a few hours. The beach is quite small, dark gritty sand lined with restaurant tables under awnings. Shops shoulder to shoulder as the roads winds down into the cove. A line of identical changing sheds painted sky blue at one end. Board walks over the `sand’? to relieve certain feet from  coming in contact with nature. …….And this is called a top tourist destination. !!!   Mind you the weather  produced a bit of rain for us, which tones things down, as I can imagine when the Mediterranean shimmers an aqua blue, the continuous flow of whitewashed houses that just seem to cling on the hillsides….mix that with the vast number of lemon groves terraced EVERYWHERE…yes maybe it earns its reputation.

Posting this from the town of Leece in the heel part of Italy. We would have had an easy drive over from Pompei if not for the tollway closing due to an accident (we presume)…caused traffic to be diverted…..two hours later we rejoined our original road arriving with much less time to explore the area. But another day is ahead…..(:) G       

 PS. The landscape, as you leave the mountainous side of the west changes to beautiful rolling farmland but hardly an animal to be seen. Fields cut or ready to cut – either grain (wheat ?) or big rounds of haylage. Mix in occasional market gardens then closer to the coast the (as expected) Olive trees. Our road detour took us through coastal towns….scrubby land, Jules commented about the strong Greek influence in the flat roofed white washed houses. Townships of big ugly multi- storied apartments.

One of the main roads in old Pompei

 Hello, Time has slipped by, our three weeks in Soriano now finished.This post is mainly to say we are now traveling south taking in part of the `heel’ of Italy on way to Sicily. Staying in Soriano gave a real insite to everyday small town Italian life as its just off the tourist track. The English woman (married to an Italian-who I mentioned in an earlier blog) who looks after the apartment said Daves legs weren’t the talk of the town anymore….the latest gossip was about 6 American visitors who arrived in the piazza to eat at their preferred cafe/bar….found it closed(the other was open) so reported it to the local police !!!!! ….and apparently were heard to comment that the cafe would be charged. Is that how life goes in America…I doubt it.

So to the Ruins of old Pompei, just south of Naples (Napoli). A bit eerie walking through. A place where time was encased after Mt Vesuvius erupted 24th August 79 BC ….. most inhabitants perished, if not by the layers of burning pumice stone, then the poisonous gases given off. The area left till the 1800’s when excavations uncovered what is now exposed today. Thoughts of those perishedis there to see in the way of body casts (made by pumping plaster into hollows left by disintergrated bodies) One in particular in a crouched position with hands over nose and mouth. 

Staying two nights in Pompei gave us yesterday to drive round the Sorrentine Peninsula to see the great tourist mecca of the Amelfi coast. What a drive, the road high up above the sea, attached at times to a vertical face. Houses too in places that leave you wondering on their stability. Spectacular.

Must finish this now as time not on the blog side. To be continued ?……..(:) G [Read more →]

Hi,   Back again, can’t help it, as there is much to see and experience withing an hours drive from us…..thermal pools, just located in a paddock near Viterbo. Very simply formed ponds, fed via a surface pipe, diverted when necessary by a big rag stuffed at an opening in the pipe. Run by locals, anyone can just drive up and soak at will. There are other places but these are less crowded

Thermal pools - Viterbo

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spot the snail....& its not Jules

The medieval section of Orvieto is known for its pottery, depicting Italian countryside etc the glazes so rich. Found a colourful little snail…how well it blended in with what Jules was wearing that day.

Countryside near Orvieto

Blogging out & blobbing out

Hello again, – Rome yesterday…we helped to add to the crowds but it wasn’t too bad. Arriving at the central rail terminal was an experience in itself…it was huge, seemed to take ages to get out onto the street…single file and keep an eye out for each other. First sight of the Colosseum had the same effect as when in Florence with the Cathedral.   Could see workmen way up on top…possibly re-enforcing what remains as it is worse for wear but when you think how many years have passed since its often gruesome past was in its hay day, (80 AD) it can be excused. Its structure is all there to see, the dungeons which housed the `entertainment’…human and beast.  The various indicated levels of seating(80,000)in all. Upper level for the commoners. The gentry (mid levels) and the somebodies (lower down). What a blood thirsty time that was…story goes that one emperor order `games’ for 117 days, involving 9000 gladiators to fight to the death.

We made use of the underground rail system to disappear down one hole and pop up from another….one time when squeezing into an already crowded compartment…Dave had to hold his back-pack above his head to fit in, the closing doors compacting the sardine tin more so. 

Colosseum - Rome

Inner walls - Colosseum

So much to see in Rome…only covered the Colosseum, ancient ruins and a few more places so plan to return next week. (:) G

Centre stage - Colosseum

Hi everyone, long time no post, sorry.

Firstly…our weather has improved greatly. What a difference a few days make. The sun has some heat now. We even had dinner on our roof top deck. Was superb….has a charcoal BBQ…Dave is mastering the art and producing succulent pork & chicken. He and Jim have a specialty going of grilled sardines bought fresh from the mobile fish market that comes into the piazza here twice a week. Scaling and gutting sardines !!!!….they are into their `slow food’ concept. Well something is wrong if while on HOLIDAY you don’t have the time.   

The past few days have seen us explore more….with a lay day for general catch up of self….today being one of those, hence `blog time’….sounds very close to blob time which could be another name for our `home’ days.

Towards the coast from here is `Tarquinia’.  Jules, being a teacher of ancient history has opened up the past life of the Etruscians….a civilisation dating back to the 9th century BC, who had a stronghold in Italy till being absorbed into the Roman empire by 90 BC.  Our region of Lazio being one of those strongholds. So we went to see a `necropolis’ ….burial site of painted tombs. For fear of boring you (but it is actually interesting) will just say 6000 have been discovered and only a handful open to public viewing via a glass petition as exposure to air has caused deterioration. Over the years tomb robbers have been active, selling contents of said tombs on the black market.      Had our picnic lunch on the coast. (Tend to make the most of the fresh bread, salami etc and our trusty car kettle and eat `alfresco’).  Could see the port of Civitavecchia  in the distance, with its many cruise ships tied up…..nearness of Rome being the attraction , as the immediate coastline certainly for me didn’t do it.   As expected its fairly built up, stony foreshore, with the occasional `artificial beach’…. truck loads of sand seen piled up,  a grader at the ready, lined up umbrella’s with deck chairs stacked nearby for rental (I guess)……..it was nice to be near the sea again though.

Visiting Siena , in Tuscany was our other full day…. Another walled city…… As you drive around they just pop up large and small, crowning hills. Shear rock faces melding into homes above, safe from attach. As Jim commented and not in a derogatory sense “they are a dime a dozen”. So it’s easy to begin to think….seen one, seen them all. But somehow they still hold their individual mystery.  What made Siena really interesting was its main square `del Campo’. (about the size of 1 ½ rugby fields) It’s totally surrounded by Gothic / Early period buildings. The paved  expanse is a slanting scallop shell shape …….here lies the interesting bit.  It’s the site of a horse race with a difference and from what I read `resembling a renaissance free for all’.  

Bare with me while I tell you because standing in the square the imagination can see it all happening….though I don’t think I would personally like to see the poor horses galloping on such a hard surface myself.      Held twice a year (July and August)This centuries old event, well sort after by visitors, has accommodation booked a year in advance.  Before the race, horses and jockeys are blessed (with emphases on the horse).  Jockeys ride bare back often careering into mattress cushioned walls at the turn. The horses are loaned out by local owners with a lottery drawing rider to horse three days before the event – then the real action begins, as neighbourhood leaders plot strategy and form numerous secret race-day alliances……reading on, almost anything goes….whipping an opponent, blocking, bribery.    The first horse to complete three laps around the square with or without the rider, wins the race.    All over in minutes but it’s the pomp and pageantry preceding the race and the partying to follow that adds to the overall sceptical.

Well I’m bound to have really worn you all out now.   Tomorrow we’re off to Rome…safe driving strategies….go by train.  (:) G

Buon giorno,    (Tuesday)was fine ALL DAY, now ,as I put this together after our morning trip to visit the museum in nearby Viterbo we have had an afternoon of thunder storms. It’s still not that warm…in fact doesn’t seem to take much for it to feel cold to freezing. We are about 600m up Monte Cimino so got to expect to catch whatever wind blows. (Had planned our rooftop garden to be the dinner venue last night but soon scampered down to the heated rooms below when it got too unpleasant)

Have ventured around our immediate area the last few days…within an easy 1/2hr drive you find such treasures as a lake (Lago di Vico), Beech forest, Chestnut groves (some so old the trunks, wide and twisted, big knot holes….like out of a children’s story book) Many properties with their own vineyards, Olive groves……as you would expect being Italy. 

Extra snippets not mentioned.    *Smokers – so many,  its really noticeable everywhere we’ve been.        * Siestas – Italy closes down at 1.00pm ish or seems to, not much is open, and stays that way till 4.30 or so – Mondays closed all day.           *Sirens and church bells – we get a combination of the two  resounding through the town daily, apparently the district was/still is ? influenced by a combination of comunisum/catholicism…the siren is located very near us and is LOUD (its exactly like an air raid warning going off), may have been a call for workers to start/stop and has continued without question over the years? The bells help to keep track of the time of course as they ring at 7.30am, midday and later afternoon.    *Haze – Looking `beyond’ seems to be less then clear….Jim & Jules commented that it was typical Europe.  

We are getting to know a few locals….and they us, especially Dave as he wanders about  in his `stubbies’.  The men round here all wear trousers/jeans…we know its a current talking point for them….the looks say it all. While the men may find it amusing Dave has received favourable comments from the women shopkeepers.

Louise – Hi, Yes we did see through part of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. The medici family as you said were powerful and dominated Florence rule for about 150yrs. The palace has embossed pillars as you enter, opens into a vast hall, once the meeting room of parliament, later for banquets and festivities (as we passed through, a public address acknowledging Florence Nightingale was just finishing). Various rooms were decorated to senior members of the Medici family ie painted ceiling depicting scenes, portraits.

Lago di Vico

Woodland - Lago di Vico

Soriano and beyond

Till next post – Arrivederci. (:) G

spot the two enthusiasts with their newly aquired Fiat 500 hats

Hello everyone – Finally I have some control of the photo department (hopefully).  Been meaning to mention that through `comments’ (which are great to receive thanks) feel free to ask questions. Sorry not to make personal contact much …. this is time consuming enough.

Arian Baptistery - V century. - Ravenna

Mosaic ceiling - Adrian Baptistery

Buon Giorno,  Though to an Italian, my version is very flat….need to get some flair into it. To hear the language spoken, its very expressive and emotional. You get all primed up on what has been rehearsed  but when it comes to the real thing to a real Italian, your tongue and brain get tangled. They look at you and you at them and end up with a pigeon English type of communication.

Thursday 13^th Good to report that we have made it safely to our home / base of the next three weeks and what a place….talk about Charles Dickens.  `Soriano nel Cimino’. Meaning the town  – Soriano, …nel Cimino (on the mountain). Best to look it up on the net as its not a very big town. The area consists of generalised housing as you drive towards it through farmland and wooded glades, then as the road begins to climb the old sector, sitting as a cluster above, comes into view. Think Medieval and you have it. Castle to top it off and all. Jules has done it again…what connections she has.

8000 population forms the township and surrounding area. It was quite a job finding our actual apartment (which is owned by an Australian couple who come here about four times a year) When I say difficult…picture hundreds of years ago, foot traffic, carts….accommodating for cars `not’. Narrow roadways, tiny lanes, blind corners, stone archways and lots of other cars, delivery trucks. All this at an elevated level of varying degrees. Failed to add to this mix – pedestrians. Repeating a circuit, having to back up to make way for the sudden appearance of other vehicles,….. visitors (us) to the area must stand out like neon lights. Wonder what the thoughts of the observing locals are.

Will get some photos up in the near future for you all. The place is amazing, its full of cobbled lanes  weaving between clay tiled roofed houses that share walls. Forget about backyards. Step out your door onto the street. Shutters protect the long thin windows, a number of which have little iron framed balconies. Breaking this exterior are flowered window boxes here and there.

Our house consists of…from the street, you step through green thick wooden French doors into a dark little foyer.  To the left is a door that, until only recently belonged to an Italian women (7^th generation occupation) but sadly we hear she slipped on ice just outside her door when putting rubbish out, was helped back inside by a neighbour but was found dead a day or so later. Must have hit her head poor soul.  Hearing about `ice’ doesn’t surprise me as on arriving yesterday afternoon and arranging to meet up with a local (English) woman who manages things for the current owners….it was uncomfortably cold sitting outside having a drink with her at a nearby bar….this being May should be different but apparently it has been  cool. (pleased I packed extra `just in case’ warm cloths)  Anyway, sorry, got a bit sidetracked there. A narrow stairwell does a couple of turns to arrive at our door. Once in the apartment the first floor is kitchen, living and combined toilet, shower, laundry.  The stairwell  continues to wind up to a hallway with the two double bedrooms off it…at the end another shower / toilet.  Bypass that level and continue on up the next wind of stairs passing through a little room for general storage….. on round and up, the stairs continue, narrowing more. You just start to feel very enclosed  and feel conscious of head height when WOW, you come out onto a rooftop space and how does it go `On a clear day you can see forever’. Well not quite but the view out over the surrounding multi level roof tops to the countryside beyond is a picture. Green fields, trees, clay coloured homes. Leave the rest up to your imagination.  So to sum things up, the apartment has been modernised but only to the extent of comfort not detracting from the atmosphere you would expect to find. 

Now shall tell you a few things that have been observed over the past few weeks but failed to mention….When going out for dinner, dogs can go into restaurants too if on a lead and permission is given……Fashion amongst the younger set is tight jeans and the highest of heels……also plenty of fashionable `nana’s’(minus the high heels)……The Italians like to parade around (be seen). To quote Jules observing `Poncey people parading their pampered pooches in the piazza’ (piazza being a public courtyard area)……Scarf wrapped loosely round the neck of the young Italian man in a tee shirt is emerging, certainly on models in shop windows anyway.

And so I’ve finally finish…..thank goodness you say….G

Just going back a few days…Slovenia is a little gem or at least what we saw in-spite of the wet weather.  Bled is on the edge of a national park and apparently a popular area for adventure sports.  It has a castle of Roman origin that forms extra height to a sheer rock face 100m above Lake Bled. As we haven’t reached the point of thinking `just another castle’, Jules and I paid our entry fee while the boys sat it out by the car-park. I expected to find the interior worse for wear but within the huge walls is a museum, restaurant and old printing shop What a view over the countryside so green, rising up into the Alps. All the time the mist only allowing glimpse of the last of the winter snow.   A little way out of the township and part of the national park is Vintgar Gorge. Because of the rainfall it was roaring. Once again after paying an entry fee we ventured along beside the river till we began to cross back and forth over the torrent following a secure (thank goodness) wooden railed pathway/bridges. That water was moving at such a rate that as it squeesed through narrow sections we could hardly hear ourselves. Think one photo that Jim took of us crossing would have shown my eyes as big as saucers.

Anyway three nights we stayed in Bled. The family at the `Union’ hotel making us very welcome. Even arranged to do our washing for us on the last night (for a small fee) but there wouldn’t be many restaurants that you can walk into carrying your bags of washing, hand them over then be ushered to your table (by the fire for a second night running) to have it handed back nicely folded when you arrive for breakfast.

Left there on the 7th, stopping briefly at Slovenia’s capital Ljubljana….now try pronouncing that, (my version is Lub-u-ana) but that’s very rough. Personally I didn’t rate it much, rather somber but it did have its attractions.

On to Venice, this time staying in a couple of cabins at a good location on the mainland   (Where would we be without the internet….just a matter of going on line to check out accommodation , booking and all is set).Caught a shuttle bus from the camp, over a long causeway.    WHAT A PLACE…..amaizing experiance. Everything you could imagine. The main waterway `The Grand Canal’ snakes through the heart of the area, crossed by four main pedestrian bridges. Multiple smaller canals branch off that, all inter-twinning to form a laberyth of confusion. Narrow footpaths line some canals, otherwise they meander between the `blocks’ of very old multi-levelled homes. Its very easy to feel disorientated. Found out its best to catch one of the small ferries from the `arrivals’ end of Venice and get off at the far end of the main canal, then gradually find your way back over time. The place is certainly geared for tourist…..thousands of them. Shops full of much the same thing, tightly packed together but all helping to make it buzz. A quick history lesson…apparently Venice was formed from the forbears Venetians fleeing from invasion to small outer islands that form the basis of what we see today. (:) Gail ….. leave Dave to take over.

This is typical of small canal

The Gondolas being manourvered with ease. Note the elaborate seating for the passengers. The rollock used in these boats is ingenious and you have to see the Gondolier in action to appreciate the method of propulsion.

St. Marks Square was awash with tourists. The queue to the St. Marks Basilica was too long for any of us to entertain. Plenty of souvenirshops withe the main features being the famous “Carnival” masks and “Murano crystal & glass”. We worked our way around the city until we found the non tourist area and found that  interesting to observe the locals in their daily routine. You could spend days in the city and in fact many were staying there. They were walking down the streets towing suit cases as there is no vehicle access.  All good things come to an end and we head back to the mainland.

On to Ravenna, famous for Mosaics and Monuments.   Short drive to Ravenna through the Po Delta. This area is south of Venice on the Adriatic Sea. The ‘PO’ Delta is famous for its bird life and sea food, particularly preserved eel. Jim tried it and reckons its good. However, Jim also thought the pigs entrails sausages that we purchased in Lyon were excellent. I leave it to each of you to decide.  Chow

Gail & Jules pose. Old bike geared up for a mobile seamstress. Has Potential!